‘Every Cook Should Learn At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Ranks 4th on Roll of London’s Top Dining Destinations.

When curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the family utterly shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest restaurant achieving such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary triumph.

Theodore Rodriguez III
Theodore Rodriguez III

A seasoned journalist with over a decade of experience covering international affairs and global trends.